Stefano Bemer Review | T6456 Balmoral Oxford In Dark Brown Calf

Reaching The Endgame

Welcome to a rather special Review of my first pair from Stefano Bemer.

Hype, nervousness, excitement and many more feelings bottled up in an unstable concoction until their arrival last week.

Finally I am able to talk to you about the most expensive (non-exotic leather) pair in my shoe collection.

Just like the shoes themselves, this is going to be a rollercoaster so strap yourselves in!

Oh and happy midsummer from Sweden!

Premise & Background

Before getting into this Review, I thought it would be important to talk about how I acquired this pair.

This is going to be a long Review so feel free to skip this section if you want to get into the “meat”.

As many of you might know, I revealed in a previous article that I will be studying shoemaking at Stefano Bemer in Florence next year.

Specifically, it was an introductory article about where and how to learn shoemaking in 2021.

A couple of months ago, I reached out to Stefano Bemer Bespoke and had a lovely exchange with Fabio.

I talked about my story, my ambitions but also the desire to review high end shoes. I proposed an honest written and video review of one of their high end shoes but not for free.

This might be a hobby blog, but I do respect the work and craftsmanship of high end shoemakers.

In other words I paid a reduced price for todays’ Review Pair but I promise it was still a colossal amount of money.

Let’s get on with the show.

Stefano Bemer Background

To begin with, I would like to wish Stefano Bemer a happy birthday.

He would have been 57 years old on the 22nd of June but he tragically passed away 9 years ago. Today we also honor his memory and his legacy is still strong through his brother Mario (Interview) and the Stefano Bemer brand.

Stefano’s passion about shoes manifested from a young age when he witnessed the stunning collection of a local aristocrat.

He moved to Florence to study shoemaking and soon began getting recognition about his work.

The styling, precision, attention to detail and above everything his kind heart and warm personality made him one of the most beloved shoemakers of his generation.

A battle with a serious illness took him away from us too soon in 2012 and the family had a very difficult decision to make.

For both financial and administrative reasons, the Stefano Bemer name and brand was purchased by Tommaso Melani in 2013.

The parent company goes by the name “Scuola del Cuoio” which literally translates to leather school.

Continuation & Change In Direction

Before his passing, Stefano made sure to preserve the fine trade of shoemaking by teaching people.

Some of the most important people in the industry trained under him. Norman Vilalta, Justin FitzPatrick and many more were his apprentices.

It was therefore super important to preserve this tradition and keep the school running.

The shoemaking school continues now twice a year with 10-12 apprentices from all over the world.

Preservation of the famous Bespoke Program was also important. However there is also a stronger focus in Ready To Wear (RTW) and Made To Order (MTO).

Which is exactly what we will be talking today in an honest and critically constructive way.

Stefano Bemer Ranges

The backbone of the Stefano Bemer is their Bespoke Range.

However, there are actually two types of Bespoke offerings and three RTW ranges that I will explain here.

It should help you understand the differences and make a more educated choice.

Stefano Bemer Essentialle

With a name that literally translates into “Essential”, the Essentialle Collection contains exactly that.

A capsule collection with 8 models and 12 combinations that can form a basis for a man’s wardrobe.

You have your oxfords, loafers, chukka boots and derbies in some more conservative or easy to match colorways.

Starting at $990 this is the cheapest line that Stefano Bemer offers.

There is a reason for that as these shoes are properly Goodyear Welted by machine so a more Benchgrade level item.

The quality of the materials and construction will still be good of course.

The Essentialle is a good option for those wanting to dip their toes in the high end market and don’t care about the handmade aspect much.

Rumor has it Simon Crompton of Permanent Style helped with this collection and the conception of its idea.

Stefano Bemer Classica

Moving up a tier we reach the Classica Collection which as you might guess means Classic.

Stefano Bemer’s most famous RTW Line which is a blend of Bespoke quality and RTW.

What I mean by that is that they try to incorporate as many of the Bespoke Handmade elements into the shoes.

For example, they do the clicking of the uppers by hand, as well as the lasting and welting.

To keep the cost down, they instead machine stitch the sole. It’s not like you would notice really.

For this core collection you will find a few more sharp, aggressive looking styles and even some crazier ones.

Expect to pay for a standard shoe around the $1350-$1390 mark and much more for exotic leathers.

As always, there is a surcharge for MTO shoes.

Stefano Bemer Tradizione

We now reach the pinnacle of RTW/MTO which is the Tradizione Collection.

Tradizione in Italian means traditional and is essentially a Bespoke shoe in disguise.

The reason I say this is because the shoe is entirely handmade, including the sole this time.

In this range, Stefano Bemer uses the same materials and processes of their Bespoke but applies them on a RTW last.

This is perfect for those that still seek perfection but already get a great fit from a RTW Last.

Prices begin at around $1990 and go up 15-20% for MTO.

You can customize whatever you want pretty much, or even order the famous Russian Reindeer Replica Leather.

Today’s Review pair is from the Stefano Bemer Tradizione Collection as well.

Stefano Bemer Blue Bespoke

When you begin to add terminology to Bespoke it can become a little convoluted.

The Blue Bespoke Line of Stefano Bemer is pretty much the whole Bespoke process with a small difference.

Instead of sewing the sole by hand, they instead use a traditional 1940 Duer stitching machine to stitch the forefoot onto the welt.

It seems there is a bit less customization potential when it comes to the sole or heel height. However it’s still a Bespoke product.

Currently the Stefano Bemer Blue Bespoke will cost you about €3050 or about $3500.

Stefano Bemer Sixpence Bespoke

Finally, the cream of the crop is the classic, full Bespoke experience.

They nickname it Sixpence due to the fact that in the old days a sixpence silver coin was placed in the box as a good luck charm.

Supposedly this tradition comes from the ancient Scottish times.

As a small trivia, Stefano Bemer calls the fiddleback waist “The Violin”.

I am not aware of the price for the Full Bespoke Service but expect it to be around/over $4000.

Stefano Bemer Review | Specifications

Choosing a specific pair is always a difficult thing especially when there is so much customization available.

I am a person that loves oxfords and not loafers, so I narrowed it down to the former.

And since I have a lot of adelaides, wholecuts and general designs I picked the T6456 Balmoral Oxford.

Here are the specifications and keep in mind that these shoes are MTO:

• Brand: Stefano Bemer
• Model: T6456
• Type: Balmoral Oxford (Wingtip Design)
• Range: Tradizione
• Leather: Full Grain Calfskin
• Color: Dark Brown Calf
• Construction: Hand-welted, hand-lasted, hand-clicked
• Eyelets: 5 Blind
• Lining: Leather
• Sole: Handsewn Single Leather
• Last: S
• Size: EU 42.5 (UK 8.5/US 9.5D)
• Shoe Trees: Lasted
• Details: Metal Toe Tips (Flush)
• Packaging: Wooden Custom Box
• Origin: Florence, Italy
• Price Estimate: $1990

There is a ton of information to go through so we will dissect them one by one in the upcoming sections.

Ordering & Delivery

I ordered my shoes on the 9th of April 2021 and got them on June 21.

The quoted timeline is between 8-12 weeks, which is pretty good for MTO shoes.

Communication happened via email, where I corresponded with Fabio who was extremely helpful and polite.

Additionally, when I had some questions after the delivery he was quick to reply with a very elaborate answer.

My shoes were not in stock in my size, so I opted for the MTO route and a nice dark brown calf color.

He also gave me the correct advice about sizing as you will see later on the review.

Stefano Bemer seems to use DHL/FedEx and I got multiple notifications on my email updating me about my package.

It took about 2 business days to arrive to Sweden in a very nice branded custom cardboard box.

Stefano Bemer Review | Unboxing

With great hype comes great expectations especially for a pair of shoes that costs that much.

I was certainly not ready for the luxury Stefano Bemer throws at you.

Open up the packaging and there is a beautiful wooden box underneath. A box with a light blue color that reminds you of the sea and the Bemer logo on top.

The box is like a treasure chest and opens like one and underneath the lock has your initials. What a nice touch.

After your initial reaction and awe, you manage to open up the box and the luxury experience continues.

Branded beautiful paper covers everything but on top you get a plethora of goodies.

A proper shoe brush, a large shoe horn and a pouch with a beautiful gray/brown plaid pattern. It contains shoe polish, an extra pair of laces and a smaller brush for cleaning.

The shoe bags are spacious, with a beautiful tweed-like texture and a brown color. They seem to weave some other colors into it because it sparkles in different ones slightly.

Overall, I can safely say that this is the most luxurious and impressive unboxing I had from a pair of shoes.

It matches the aesthetics and the luxury feeling you get from spending that kind of money on shoes. In other words it matches the experience.

Stefano Bemer Review | Initial Impressions

Here is where the Review will become a little more complicated, but bear with me.

Make sure to read the whole thing as well!

With hype building up, a fantastic unboxing and the pressure of the price tag, I expected to be blown away by the shoes.

While I did initially, I immediately spotted a specific point in the shoes that worried me.

The shoes themselves looked spectacular in shape and design but the top of the vamp appeared blurry with some white spots. Worse of all one of them looked a little folded like the creasing that develops when you try on shoes.

Before going out there and saying how bad this looks, I did my due diligence. I spoke to Fabio, Jesper from Shoegazing and Antonio Meccariello who I trust.

Of course, nobody would try on my shoes so something else was the problem. It looked like a waxing or lasting cause from my viewpoint.

In other words, there could be a bit more polish residue there or simply the wax melting during transport after the shine.

The reason I am writing this is to help you understand my thought process and not immediately lash out in a forum or demand refunds or explanations with a pitchfork out.

I began appreciating the shoes for what they are, a wonderful piece of handmade footwear.

A beautiful shape, attention to detail and exclusive presentation.

More on that later, but first let’s get to the good stuff!

The T6456 Model

To begin with, I’d like to talk about the model itself first.

Stylistically, the T6456 (which totally has a terminator name!) is a mix of a wingtip and balmoral oxford.

For those of you that want more information about the Types of Dress Shoes I have a really large Guide!

In short, this is an oxford shoe with a closed lacing system and perforations around it.

The throat stitching extends and goes to the back of the shoe parallelly giving it the name Balmoral.

It is very reminiscent of a Longwing since it has the wingtip design at the front.

A very sharp design with a great looking last, accentuated by the spade sole.

The combination of color, last and design makes it an ideal oxford for versatility.

Great for suiting and separates, dressing up and down more or less formal outfits with ease.

It genuinely caught my eye immediately and is a stunner as you can see in the photos.

Leather Quality

Always an important and debatable topic is leather quality.

When you spend over $2000 you expect premium leather for sure, though true quality shows up with time and use.

I can confirm that the museum leather Stefano Bemer uses is from the Italian Zonta Tannery. Fabio described it to me as a leather with quite dense pores that doesn’t absorb too much wax.

If it gets dry on flex points, it can create that residual layer I mentioned before.

Overall, the leather is supple yet firm to the touch. Run your hand across it and it just glides over it.

Looking closely at the toe area, it comes already with a decent shine and I could see my face on it.

In other words, it gives me the confidence that it will take a mirror shine very well.

We will see how it ages since leathers come in different shapes, densities and thickness.

The average individual might not be able to see any visible difference between that and say the Vass leather.

But just like those, I once again find it hard to distinguish the mottled effect of the museum calf in dark brown. It looks uniform to me, which I frankly love it just looks dashing and imposing.

Update: I did run a quick layer of conditioner and most of the residue disappeared.

Construction Quality

What is there to say about the construction right?

At this level of shoemaking you get a Bespoke level shoe.

This means that they do the clicking by hand, which involves manually finding the best parts of the hide and putting it together.

Afterwards they hand-last and hand-welt the shoe but also sew the sole by hand. It’s pretty impressive that all this makes it into a RTW shoe.

Very importantly, in Italy they often say Goodyear yet mean Hand-welted and it can be confusing term for some.

You can always refer to my range guide above and figure it out.

I really like the way they carve the waist and the heel is also neatly stacked and trimmed with glass.

Overall, this is a very solid shoe and one that is satisfying to hold.

At the same time, there are a lot of quality elements hidden inside the shoe, kind of like unsung heroes.

Those you can only feel during wear or as they age and become better.

Welt & Stitching

I am tired about everyone speaking about high density SPI and all this nonsense as it becomes completely irrelevant.

These price levels should definitely command great stitching and attention to detail for sure.

In this particular model I did notice a few things.

Starting up with the overall stitching in the uppers, it’s pretty good. I did catch the tiniest of loose threads on a certain part of the broguing.

The welt was immaculate, although I found very interesting how the sole was not as tight and close to the uppers.

I am not an expert on that yet, nor I care because I like the aesthetics and definition it brings to the shape.

Specifically, I like how it’s more pronounced, giving shape and form to the toe box, but also the super sharp indent towards the waist where it just disappears under the shoe.

If this is intentional it’s a superb choice in my opinion, marrying finesse and sharpness together.

Interior

If there is one area where I thought these shoes could be better, it’s the interior.

At first glance, everything is totally fine with a branded half insole and relatively clean walls.

Further in however, the whiter part of the front insole is a little messy and dirty.

Frankly though, I don’t know much about insoles and after one wear those darker marks would show up regardless.

I do get the sense however that it could benefit from a cleaner presentation during the unboxing.

Nothing from what I mentioned will have any effect in the quality or structural integrity of the shoe. Nobody will be looking at your insoles either.

You can be your own judges though.

Sole

Moving on towards the sole, it is a marvel and I almost don’t want to walk in them.

As a form of art, I think the sole of a Paolo Scafora shoe or a patinaed Meccariello Aurum is more stunning.

On the other hand though, the natural more simplistic color of the Stefano Bemer sole allows you to observe and appreciate the construction elements of the shoe.

It goes without saying that the sole has hidden channeling but the addition of a spade sole is fantastic.

Why don’t more manufacturers do this? It’s phenomenal and exquisite. They carve the waist nice and tightly, with a visible pronounced fiddleback.

The channel markings are virtually invisible with the edge dressing spreading evenly a few millimeters on each side.

Looking at the shoe upside down also gives you a nice view of the soft square S Last.

The metal toe tips are good, though I must admit I have seen better installations and a bit more flush. Really nitpicking here.

Lastly, an area I want to look at is the heel block.

The heel stack seems to be leather, stacked evenly with a tight cup and slight pitch.

Spend some more time observing and you can spot the trimming, pricking and individual fudging on the welt.

I just cannot wait to study there and make my own shoes.

Shoe Trees

Continuing with extreme nitpicking, I will briefly discuss shoe trees.

Lasted shoe trees of course and of great quality, fitting the shoe perfectly.

They come with a single spring mechanism, a lasered logo on the handle and very interestingly, leather pull tabs to grab onto.

Not so heavy due to the hollowed design at the middle, which shaves a lot of weight.

Now I am nitpicking because there are better looking shoe trees out there, if that’s even a thing.

I’ll never get tired of the “swoosh” sound when I put them on though it’s magical.

In other words, the shoe trees are great and a must have for this level of shoemaking.

Tip: Want to learn more about the Types of Shoe Trees? I got you covered!

The Stefano Bemer S Last

Stefano Bemer offers a plethora of Lasts for its RTW models.

I could dedicate an entire article on the difference between them, but I will refer you to their handy guide.

Instead here’s a quick overview of all the lasts so you can get a feel.

Today’s model is on the S Last which is the soft square variation of the C Last.

I am extremely fond of soft square lasts so the choice was between the S, TX and JX for me.

However due to the fitting advice and researching I chose the S, which is a very elegant yet sharp last. Perfect for such a model I believe.

The S Last is quite well balanced and carries the essence of the Italian shoemaker.

Chiseled, with a sharp waist, a high instep drop and longer toe area followed by a sharp, short drop at the end.

If you run your finger over the sides of the toe box, you can feel the change in angles and sharp corners.

For those of you that know the curves of cars like the Nissan GT-R or any Lamborghini, you will understand.

Aerodynamic and elegant, like a rampaging horse.

Fit & Sizing Advice

Frequent readers of the blog and my reviews will know by now that my usual size is UK 8 (US 9D).

For wide lasts, I go down to a UK 7.5 and on the rare narrower one, up to UK 8.5.

My foot is somewhere between a regular and wide fitting with a higher instep especially on the right foot.

After discussions with Fabio, he recommended I take a UK 8.5 (US 9.5D) and it was the correct choice on the S Last.

Actually, the fit is terrific in all the right ways for my foot. There is a sense of “just right” in all major areas of the shoe.

The instep, heel, width and toe box fit well and close but not constrictive.

Stefano Bemer also makes a sharper heel which clips in towards the top and cupping your heel better.

Even the RTW Lasts come with a higher arch and a sharp waist, providing a stiffer but more arch support for some.

However you should always remember just because the last works for me, it might not work for you as good.

So always consult with the retailer and make sure to read my quick Guide to How Should Shoes Fit.

Where To Buy Stefano Bemer Shoes?

There are only a few retailers that stock Stefano Bemer shoes and the easiest way to purchase their shoes is through them.

Stefano Bemer has two physical locations and showrooms currently. One in Florence (Italy) and one in New York (USA).

By following their website or social media accounts, you can also keep truck of their trunk shows all over the world.

There are of course various retailers all over the world, such as in the USA, Australia, Japan and Korea.

Alternatively, you can also purchase your Stefano Bemer shoes through The Rake.

Find the whole list at Stefano Bemer’s Website.

Should You Buy These?

I spent a lot of time thinking about these shoes and their price point.

The conclusion was that at this level there is no notion of “value”. You are way past value at this stage.

And if you are the type of person that will ask “How much does it cost” you probably cannot afford them, just like 99% of the population.

That is because at that price point the target audience is the man that has a massive income and simply wants the best name, construction, quality and handiwork.

If you fall in that category then by all means this is a fantastic shoe and you should totally get one.

However if you are on a smaller budget or dipping your toes in the higher end, you will have an equally great time with the Essentialle or Classica Collections.

Be very careful, this is not a negative for the brand or similarly priced shoes but a simple reality.

It is great that there are 3 segments in the Stefano Bemer RTW that allow you to adjust and align with your needs.

One thing I can say with certainty though is that there are also 2 types of people.

Those that will not accept nothing but perfection whether it’s a $400 or $5000 shoe and will always find certain flaws.

And those that appreciate that this is a handmade product, built with care, love and passion and enjoy the tiny little “imperfections” here and there.

I would personally go for the Classica first but if you want the absolute best, you will be elated with these.

After my initial worries and skepticism, these shoes are growing on me every day. And my lord are they a joy and comfortable to wear.

They are spectacular and I can highly recommend them.

Bonus: Watching Kirby Allison

If you came that far and read the whole review, I congratulate you.

You might wonder why I chose to be slightly critical about the shoes instead of just rave endlessly.

The matter of fact is that these are spectacular shoes both in looks, feel and fit. While doing my research, I stumbled upon Kirby Allison’s two latest video reviews.

He spent 40 minutes in total only saying good things about Stefano Bemer and pretty much every brand he reviews.

For me, it’s important to take a small step back and understand shoes better, rather than pretending I am an expert.

For example, he says that the fit is superb, or that the designs are amazing. This might not be true, if you have problematic feet, or if you think the designs are too bold or fashion forward for you.

It’s the same when I watch my good friend Justin FitzPatrick praising Paul Parkman when most of their designs make me sick in the stomach.

What I mean by all of this is: Read the reviews, but do your due diligence and don’t just romanticize a product that’s not your style because your favorite youtuber said is great.

A great shoe (just like this Stefano Bemer) should fit great, match your aesthetics and make you feel that extra oomph when you look at it.

Video Review

As always, for those that prefer Video Reviews here is the Stefano Bemer one!

Conclusion

This means we reached the end of the Stefano Bemer Review.

Another spectacular journey of shoemaking and understanding, reflections and excitement for my future in Italy.

There are great shoes that you can get instead of Stefano Bemer, but what they manage to achieve alongside brands such as Meccariello, Scafora and more is their identity.

You can identify a Stefano Bemer shoe by its photography, angles, design and wow factor these days.

As a more knowledgeable shoe enthusiast now, I can say that you should put them on your shoe bucket list.

Did you enjoy this review? I’d love to hear what you think whether it’s criticism or afterthoughts in the comments!

Stay tuned for some more exciting reviews and interview in the upcoming weeks!

Thank you for reading,

Kostas Mandilaris,
Misiu Academy